Excellent Article on Detectorist/Archaeology Cooperation on Battlefields

Some Facebook friends shared with me an excellent article.

“….Although portable metal detectors have been used recreationally since the development of the equipment in the mid-1940s, little common ground had been established between archaeologists and metal detecting hobbyists. It would have likely continued this way if not for a wildfire in 1984 that consumed the tall grass covering the Little Big Horn Battlefield in Little Bighorn Battlefield NM in eastern Montana. The fire provided a unique opportunity for an innovative archaeologist and a group of metal detector hobbyists to establish a mutually beneficial working relationship that resulted in the collection of valuable data about the 130 year old battle….”

Read the rest of this excellent article here:

Battlefield Archeology at Kings Mountain National Military Park, South Carolina


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New Live Dig Video – 8 Silvers – 3 ringer and Lessons from the Bushes

Best in HD at Full Screen – enjoy!

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Time Travel is Possible, With the Right Gear (and a Bit of Research.)

time travel is possible, with the right gear and a bit of research….

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National Geographic on Metal Detecting – They Actually Tell Both Sides of the Story!

I was alerted by my friend Butch that National Geographic had published a new article about detecting, and was pleased to find they had given both sides of the detecting conflict.  Most articles in wide-spread publications omit the detecting story – or are so inaccurate to be ridiculous.  This is probably the best I’ve seen in a while.

Good job, Butch.

I had this to say about it…

There are three underlying assumptions in this article.

First…  the archaeology community has unlimited resources and will be studying every possible site “soon” so we better stay away *in case* they get to it.  And this includes already-well-documented sites!  When you do the math, this just doesn’t add up.  Sure they should have the right to declare some sites off-limits, but hoarding around “someday-maybe” just rubs people the wrong way.

Second is an assumption that “historical context’ is a concept that the detecting community just can’t grasp.  We need to just get our artifacts and bolt off to Ebay.  I do not think that this is true for those of us with experience.  We know the artifacts tell a story, and we want the story to be told.  And we want to be PART of telling the story!

And lastly, the assumption that the detecting community cannot be trusted to document and report their finds into the data set so that professionals can consider them in a broader context.  The resolution is lower – GPS coordinates are not as accurate as dig gridding, for sure.  Think of it like digging test holes at a larger scale.    I agree that this requires some sort of accreditation and permitting for accountability (just like hunting and fishing licenses.)

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Knee Pads for Metal Detecting – Reviewing Three Very Different Pair

At hunting spots such as this, the ground can have all manner of hazards. Having good knee pads can protect your knees and make the hunt much more enjoyable.

When metal detecting, I find that kneepads are a necessity.  As you kneel to pinpoint and dig targets, your knees are exposed to all manner of rough surfaces, rocks, and other hazards.   So, I go through 2-3 pair per year – and each time I’ve bought different types, trying to find a favorite.

For me, a knee pad for metal detecting needs the following qualities:

  • All-day comfort, even with shorts.
  • Stability – doesn’t ride up or down, or to the side
  • Durability – should last at least 6 months of solid hunting.
  • Reasonable protection.
  • Security – doesn’t fall off or require regular re-connecting.
  • Looks – least important, but they shouldn’t look ridiculous.
So, with that in mind, let’s go through three products I tried out point by point.

Alta tactical Superflex Pads  - $31.95

These pads are marketed as a “tactical” pad for law enforcement and paintgun use.  I used them for 8-10 hunts in late Summer 2012 at old houses and churches.

Pros:   Tough, Bad-Boy Look, Very Secure.  Lots of kneecap protection (probably more than you need), Quick Release buckle is awesome.  Available in camo.

Quick release rocks, but they slid down and were uncomfortable after a couple of hours. Tough as nails and good look.

Cons:  Uncomfortable, Slid down a lot – even when I really tightened them.  No good with shorts.

Summary:  These guys have something going with the quick release strap – it works really, really well.   And the material on this pad is top notch.  I’d guess these would last a long time.   The problem, I think, is that these pads are small, so you don’t really get to anchor the pad above the knee and below the knee to keep it in place.  They kind of strap “on the knee” rather than above and below it – so they slid down and I found myself having to pull them up just about every time I stood from a recovery.  So, trying to keep this from happening, I tightened the heck out of them.  This made the pads uncomfortable.  Especially when wearing shorts.  After 2 hours, I pulled them off.  With jeans, they are okay, but still not as comfortable as others in this test.

Buying them:  You can get them here.  I am not compensated for any sales.

McGuire-Nicholas Gel-Foam Pads – $29.97

These pads are meant for construction type work and include a Gel insert for comfort.  I used them for 12-15 hunts in Spring of 2012.  They are available at Home Depot.  These are my choice for winter hunting.

Lots of good qualities, despite being bulky. The material stretches out after getting wet or washed. If you keep them dry and sweat-free, they may be a very good choice, especially for snow/wet hunting.

Pros: Protection.  Good “pant stain” protection on side due to wide strap make these very good for mud/wet/snow.  Good comfort, even with shorts thanks to single, wide strap.

Cons: Bulky, Difficult to wash.  Material, including strap, stretches out after it gets wet a few times.  They do slide down some due to single strap, but not as bad as the Superflex pads.

Summary:  These are big knee pads.  My goal was to get some “winter” pads that would have side protection against water / snow from soaking my pants when I dug.  These worked pretty well for that since the single velcro strap widens as it gets to the pad area, forming a layer between the ground and the sides of my knee area.  So the pads got wet, not my pants.

In hot weather, these were far less ideal.  I also found that the design of these tended to absorb sweat pretty badly.  I tried to wash them regularly but still it was hard to get them clean – partially due to the gel pad enclosure.  My washing activity may have been what caused the stretching.  Eventually, the straps were too long to fasten the velcro.  I think the gel pad is great if you’re using these for tile or wood floor work, but overkill for detecting.

Buying them:  You can get them here.  I am not compensated for any sales.

My (Surprise) Favorite:  Kneel-Ons from Wildflower Seed Company – $29

Kneelons were comfortable, lightweight and easy to clean.  A clear choice for metal detecting

I saw another review on a gardening site and was intrigued.  They looked like a good trade off between many of the issues of other pads, so I got a pair.  I’ve used them for 5 hunts in Autumn of 2012.  They were the clear winner of any of the 10-12 different knee pads I’ve ever tried for this hobby.

Pros: Comfort, Stability, Simplicity. Easy to clean (machine washable!) comfortable with shorts or jeans.  Lightweight.  Compact

Cons: You must get the velcro lined up just right or they’ll pop off.  Colors are limited to Green or Blue.  I strongly suggested a black or camo option for these to the owner.

Summary:  I really do need to sing the praises for these neoprene-based pads - they are nearly perfect..  The first time I wore them I was a bit sloppy lining up the male/female pairs on the velcro and they popped off when I knelt to get targets.  ”Oh, no” I thought.  But if you’ll take the extra 5 seconds and line up the velcro well, they will stay on all day long.   The only thing I could imagine making these better is if they had the Altalok quick release system instead of velcro.

You can forget they’re on and still the padding is sufficient even for rocky surfaces.  Then, after a day’s hunt, toss them in the wash and they’re super clean.   I’ve not seen any sign of stretching and wouldn’t expect it given the materials.

Buying them:  You can get them here.  I am not compensated for any sales.
warning: There appears to be a knock-off on ebay.  Avoid this.

Check out my other equipment reviews.

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High Definition Live Digs Video – 1860/1870 House, Silver, Large Copper and Great Artifacts

Here’s the latest high-definition live digs video including my day-long hunt at an 1860/1870 house, some great coins and a terrific artifact. I recommend you watch large and in HD.    I cut down the length of the video a bit based on feedback from others.  I will try to run 7-8 minutes on live dig videos from here on (my last one was 21 minutes.. oops)

 

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5-inch long 1800s Skeleton Key at 10″

Now this is a serious key.   Found at an early 1800s location, this key was over 10″ deep.  My E-trac was maxed out at 30 sensitivity to find it.  Retrieval was a workout.  See below for key with dime for scale.  If I learn more about this key I’ll post.  It seems that “I lost the keys to the ____” was a lot more shameful in the early 1800s than now.  I mean, how do you lose a key like this?   Now will I get a gypsy curse?

Brass, has “22″ marked on the side in old style lettering.

The hunt itself is part of this live-dig video.  A fascinating discussion on locks and keys from this era is available at Poplar Forest Archaeology’s site.

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Madison and Slave Cemeteries at Montpelier (video clip)

Thought I would share this as I prepare to join the Archaeological team at Montpelier in February 2013.

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Spanish-American War Item – 1898 Camp Geo. H. Thomas Medal Dug in Kentucky

Today I was invited to hunt near an old creek in Central KY.  The spot looked promising but ended up offering only wheat pennies and this neat Spanish-American War Era find.  This is a 1898 Camp Geo. H. Thomas Chickamauga Park Georgia Souvenir Medal.  How it got to Kentucky is anyone’s guess.  But people were at the camp from all parts of the region, so I’m assuming a Kentucky soldier brought it back with him.

This medal came in three varieties, and is made out of Bronze.  It has “Schwaabs” stamped on the back, barely visible under magnification.  It was located in a frequently flooded area and would have eventually been destroyed by water.

A bit about the camp….

Camp George H Thomas – Chickamauga near Chattanooga, Tenn

“…..Chickamauga Park, near Chattanooga, Tenn., was the point of concentration for the regular troops which were gathered for the war with Spain. It was the initial camp where the mobilization took place, and from which soldiers and supplies were dispatched to seacoast towns within easy striking distance of Cuba. When orders went out from army headquarters at Washington for the movement of the regulars to Chickamauga a thrill of soldierly pride swelled the breast of every man who wore Uncle Sam’s blue uniform, and there was a hasty dash for the new camp. There is nothing an army man, officer or private, dislikes so much as inactivity. Fighting, especially against a foreign foe, suits him better than dawdling away his time in idleness, and word to “get to the front” is always welcome.

A peaceful detecting spot

For nearly three weeks troops poured into Chickamauga on every train. They came from all parts of the country, and from every regiment and branch of the service. There were “dough-boys” and cavalrymen, engineers and artillerymen; some regiments were there in force, others were represented by detachments only. There were companies and parts of companies, squadrons and parts of squadrons, batteries and parts of batteries. It was a bringing together of Uncle Sam’s soldier boys from all conceivable sections of the country.

Badge as Dug, Dirt Brushed off

The camp was well named. “Camp George H. Thomas” they called it, in memory of old “Pap,” the hero of Chickamauga, and men and officers alike took a very visible pride in being residents of the tented city. The establishment of the community at Camp Thomas was much like the establishment of a colony in an unsettled land, in so far as domestic conveniences were concerned. Everything had to be taken there, and each regiment, which was a small canvas town in itself, had to depend entirely upon its own resources….”

And I’ll leave you with a bit of Chickamauga trivia… More American soldiers died in training on the Chickamauga Battlefield during the Spanish American War than died during that four month long war.

Other Varieties

I found a couple other varieties of this medal on the web and here are those photos in case they get deleted.   These are not my finds and were found online.

badge2

medals in case

 

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Using Maprika for Metal Detecting, Archaeology and Genealogy Field Work

In the field. Notice the high contrast map and the battery case.

A year or so ago, I became familiar with Maprika – and used it for a long mountain bike trail for which I only had a paper map.  It kept me from getting lost!   It was awesome, putting your GPS location over the top of actual scanned in maps.  Even hand drawn ones.   I have used it on vacations, for zoos, and even on photos of maps taken in libraries!

Maprika allows you to load old maps, create reference points, and then accurately plot GPS location onto the old map.  When you’re in the field, you see yourself as a blue dot on the old map.  As you move, your dot moves – helping you to find house sites and such.

How it works is this, in a nutshell.

  1. Check to see if the map you want exists already.  Go to Maprika’s site and click on available maps.  Zoom in and see what’s in your planned hunt area.  Someone may have already digitized the map you’re planning do do.
  2. Download Maprika phone app from itunes or app store onto your smartphone or tablet.
  3. Install the Maprika’s map building software on your computer.  This works better with large monitor if you have it.
  4. Start with your old map.  Scan it, buy it, download it.  Make sure it’s a high resolution JPG or PNG file.  You can use maps you’ve photographed at the library too if you’ve done a good job keeping them clear and steady.
  5. Convert the map to high-contrast (optional.)  Using your favorite image editing software, make the map monochrome and high contrast to make it easier to read in the bright sun in the field and save the file – this is the file you’ll load into Maprika.   RESOLUTION LOSS WARNING.  Make sure you don’t lose map resolution after adjusting it and re-saving it.  Higher resolution pays off when you zoom up.
  6. Load the map to Maprika’s map building software- I do this on my desktop computer, but I think they have other ways.  The old map will go on the left, and modern Google Maps (I use Hybrid mode) will appear on the right.  IMPORTANT:  If you are editing maps you’ve already uploaded before, you MUST log in under the server menu using the same username/password that you used on your mobile device.  Once you upload a map, your username and password are forever attached to it so only you can update it!
  7. Load up the modern map on the right. Use the “search feature” on the bottom right to enter cities, GPS coordinates or whatever so that your Google/Bing map is centered on the right.
  8. Begin adding georeference points.  Once both maps are loaded and in similar orientations, click ‘new point” to start adding reference points.  First, put the point on the landmark on one map, and then find the same landmark on the right.  See illustration below for an example… <save often!!>
  9. Finish Up.  After you have 50-100 reference points, save the map using “File/Save”
  10. Fill in Map information, title, keywords Map Properties choice under the File Menu –  This is how you’ll find the map later.  Save the map again.
  11. Publish the Map. Upload it to the Maprika server using the “Upload to server” menu choice.  Be patient on large maps.  It takes 3-4 minutes sometimes.DONE!  Now you’re ready to use the map  The map will then be PUBLIC and can be found by anyone else using Maprika.  I wish they had a private option, even with a fee.
  12. Load the Map into Your Phone. Go and load the map covering the area you want to hunt – here’s where you’ll see the map info you entered pay off.
  13. Head out into the field….It will then show your GPS position ON THE OLD MAP and you can zoom up tight, pan and so forth without any loss of clarity.  Sweeet.  You can find old houses and more this way – the sky’s the limit.
  14. Enjoy! Let me know if it helps you!

Here are some tips:

Only load the maps you need.  I have found the iphone application gets slow and buggy if you load too many maps.  I have told Maprika about this.  I find it crashes a lot with more than 6 maps loaded.  (update: Maprika said they have done some fixes that may help on this.)

More points, the better.  I usually ended up with 50-100 points per map.  In areas where I knew I wanted to do a lot of hunting, I did more reference points.  I know it will make my field work more accurate.  In this example map – there are 102 points.  Save your file along the way!!

Maprika is the software that makes this possible.

Where to put reference points???  Use Road Intersections, Corners and Railroads to help you point..  See here that my points were at intersections and corners.  Every few minutes you spend improving the references can save you hours in the field.

Corners, Intersections and Crossings are great for reference points

Before you know it, you’ll be finding old routes for roads that are long gone – usually because of development, modern highways, railroads or other reasons.  Maprika allows you to trace the old map and watch the cursor move around on the new map.  It’s habit forming.

Use a Battery Case.  You’re going to eat battery juice with Maprika and GPS working fully time.  Good ones run around $40 on Amazon.

Right Mouse to Add Point.... When using the maps, you can use “right mouse” to start a new point.  This saves time!

Super High Res on the Source Map is better.  Make sure that you don’t lose any resolution along the way.  Bring in maps at the highest resolution you can get, even if they end up being 5, 10, 15mb in size.  I had some that were 8000×4000 pixels.  And they worked great.  If you’re scanning, scan at 300-400 dpi and see how that works.  If it’s not enough, ramp it up.   If you get a fuzzy image like the one to the right, you’ve done something wrong.  Go over your process and figure it out.  You CANNOT DO THIS with low-res or fuzzy maps.

Here is the hidden sweet thing about Maprika.  You get high res historic maps on the iPhone without it losing resolution.  This is one of the only ways to get large map images to stay full-resolution while you load on the phone.

Make sure you have high-res from start to finish. Experiment.

Converting your map image to high-contrast helps in the field.  When you’re outside in bright sun at a detecting spot, you don’t want colored maps – you want harsh black on white.  I used Photoshop to remove the colors and then increase the contrast on the maps.  In Photoshop this is pretty easy… just load in the high res map and adjust…

In photoshop or equivalent – convert to B/W image, then turn up the contrast

High Contrast makes maps easier to view on the phone/tablet screen in the field.

(Optional, but recommended) Align Map to North before you load it into Maprika.  I always rotate the map to true-north before loading it – just to make the process of plotting reference points easier.  Maprika’s developer told me that this was not required.  I think it’s up to you.

Here’s how it looks on the iPhone.   This map can be zoomed way up because of high resolution throughout.  As I move about, it will track me (blue dot) onto the historical locations.

If you’re using iPad, make sure to click on the 2x button to make Maprika Full Screen

1. Load map. 2. See map. 3. Your Location 4. Zoom

You can imagine how amazing this is if you scan old topographic maps, sanborns, etc.   I’ve gone scan crazy.

You can even take high res photographs of maps at the library and use those as the input and try to photograph it straight-on with a steady hand, and make sure the north indicator is visible.  It’s a big time saver!!

Get an external battery for your phone because GPS drains it.  I use a battery case.

Happy Digital Hunting!

 

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